Fido's Shaving Brush Blog

Introducing Fido's Shaving Brush Blog

2011-07-24T07:55:00.002+01:00

Please note - every brush in my collection was purchased by me. There are no "freebies" here. Each brush has been used by me to enable me to write a wholly impartial review of how it has performed.

And there's more!

Preface

After completing this blog I decided to use some of the knowledge I gained from my research and from using the wide variety of brushes described here. As a result, New Forest Brushes has now been established. The purpose of this venture is to enable me to design, have made and supply a small number of popular brushes that will meet the needs of enthusiasts at an affordable price. This is has been achieved by dealing directly with an established manufacturer, and a local craftsman and selling direct to customers. My brushes will be listed from time to time on the website below.

New Forest Brushes

This blog makes no other reference to these brushes.

Blogs need to be read backwards, so it's a case of finding the oldest post and working back to here.

This is about shaving brushes in general and my collection in particular. I decided to assemble a collection of brushes across a range of prices and makers and brands, to provide some details about each brush and to express my opinions about them. Where I have found them, I have added links to other reviews to provide a more balanced assessment.
As with many things, it takes time to appreciate a shaving brush. As it gets used it settles down and you find the best way of using it to suit your preferences. So I will keep the blog updated if I discover new things about a brush. Treat all reviews with caution. I am judging brushes against my own criteria. After using many different shapes and sizes and brushes with different degrees of firmness I know what I like in a brush. I like to feel in control of the brush head. So I prefer smaller and shorter knots - no more than 22mm or much above 50mm loft. You may prefer larger, softer brushes - its all down to personal preferences.
I also like to feel I am getting good value. Brushes vary widely in price. And there isn't always a direct relationship between quality and price. But this too is a very personal thing. You pay your money and make your choice.
I hope you find something of interest here. I am not an expert. I don't go into great detail in my comments - just general impressions - you will find much more information in the many reviews to which I provide links.
If you have anything you would like to say, please do add comments to the post about which you have an opinion. It will be much appreciated - even if critical!

I love using my shaving brushes. Casting an eye over them to decide which one to use each day is part of the fun of this crazy obsession of ours.

Thank you for looking in.

Best buys

2010-02-20T11:00:00.001Z

I have thought about expressing an opinion about best buys or my favourite brushes in each price range. Looking through my reviews indicates what I think about each of my brushes. They are all good. I bought most of them because other people rated them highly. It is very difficult to decide the 'best' in each price range. They are all so different.
I have no hesitation in recommending the Vulfix 404 badger/boar mix as a brush for everyone to buy. It shows that you do not need to spend more than £10 to get a very decent shave using a brush.
If money is no object I can happily advise you to try a top Plisson, Simpson or Rooney. But don't expect it to be good value for money compared to the 404.
Real value in my opinion can be found in the £45 to £75 price range. These are perhaps where the real stars can be found. Brushes like the Savile Row 3120, Simpson Duke, Persian Jar Best Badgers, the Vulfix 2234, the odd Rooney and one of my special favourites the Kent BK8.

But I doubt two of us would agree!

Fido's verdict

2010-02-20T06:52:00.014Z

Here are a few thoughts about the brands I have covered so far. I may add more.

Edwin Jagger
Jagger are great at marketing and presentation. They make no secret of buying ready made knots and show how they make the handles and complete the brushes in a video. A nice range of brushes that will appeal mainly to cream users. They are soft and floppy but have the soft and luxurious feel that you get with such brushes. They make some lovely handles.My pick would be their 21mm medium silvertip.

Kent Brushes
Some of the better Kent brushes are excellent. They have a wide range - many retail at less than £10.
My pick. The Kent BK8 silvertip. One of the very best brushes in my collection.

Progress Vulfix
Vulfix probably make most of the brushes sold in the UK. The Vulfix range of brushes are great value across a wide range. And they are made in the Isle of man. They are open about their operations, receive visitors and talk to you openly if you telephone them. Many of the branded brushes in the London shops are made by Vulfix to a high standard. And they now make Simpson brushes to their traditional specification.
My Vulfix pick - the 2234 - deceptively soft yet firm enough for all uses. But surely the 404 badger/boar mix is the best value first brush for anyone new to wet shaving?

Plisson
A legendary name in the world of shaving. An incredible range and choice of brushes. But very expensive. If their name and quality enables them to sell at these prices, good luck to them. The parameters I set for my collection demanded that I should have at least three Plissons. They look beautiful. But apart from the High Mountain White, their performance does not match up to the hype. Even the High Mountain White I have - a small 20mm knot - is far too expensive for what it is. My little 21mm Edwin Jagger silvertip is a close match at about a third of the price.
There is only one Plisson contender to be my pick - the High Mountain White. And it is very good indeed, if I forget the price tag.

Savile Row
I have two examples of this exclusive range of brushes available only in the USA from QEDUSA. The outstanding reputation of the brand is richly deserved.

shavemac
shavemac (with a small s) have an outstanding reputation for customer service and fine quality brushes. Take a good look at their website and you will find a brush or be able to have one made to your specification. My 177 silvertip is a superb all round brush.

Omega
A huge range of great value brushes. The boars are very popular in the shaving community. My two examples didn't impress me. But it would be unfair to judge the rest on that basis. They cannot be so popular by accident.

Semogue
Many rave about these great value brushes. The 1305 and 2000 boar brushes have many advocates. I admire their marketing. My best Semogue is the 2009 Limited Edition. An exceptional boar brush. But I have to confess - I'm a badger fan - still.

Acca Kappa
I mention them because i have just one of their brushes. It is beautifully made and presented - but £120 - no wonder it only got sold at half price. And even at that price it's not a lot of brush.

Rooney
The famous R A Rooney & Sons Ltd that enjoyed an outstanding reputation no longer exists. Rooney is a brand name. Unlike Vulfix, who now own the Simpson brand, there is no one to communicate with about the Rooney brand except some on line retailers.

What about the brushes? I have several Rooney brushes. They are fine brushes. I thought that in the Heritage stubby 2, I had found my dream brush. After a few uses I found others I preferred.
My pick? The Rooney 3/1 silvertip. I think it outperforms the more expensive super grade and is a great little all round brush.

Simpsons
I have left my best to last. I have twelve Simpsons brushes. And I have seen and handled most of the extensive range. These are superb brushes, very well made, a delight to use and own and are made by a manufacturer willing to back up retailers with excellent customer service. And a manufacturer willing to communicate directly with users. The brand richly deserves its world wide reputation.
As to price. There are some expensive brushes in the range. But look at the prices of top of the range Rooneys and Plissons. The real value in Simpsons can be found in their smaller best badger ranges. Brushes which are more than big enough and superb performers like the Duke and Persian Jar best badger grades. Shop around and you will find great value here with a brush built to last.

Savile Row 3824

2010-02-19T15:52:00.000Z

Winner of a recent brush wars on the Badger and Blade Forum, this is a Finest Silvertip available only through the QED website. It has an incredibly soft brush head - no sign of the scritchyness of my 3120 from the same stable. It shows how brushes can vary. When wet, both brushes have soft tips. This has great backbone making it a versatile brush. This is about the largest brush I find really comfortable to use. Quite superb. Said by many to be good value. All things are relative! It's still an expensive brush but a delightful one to use.

Knot 24mm

Loft 54mm

Handle 52mm

Height 106mm

Price $115 USA

Other reviews

TSR

B&B

Savile Row 3120

2010-02-19T13:26:00.007Z

Out of the box and after use alongside an older brother, my shavemac 177. It is not surprising that it is widely thought that Savile Row brushes are made for QEDUSA by shavemac, the German brushmaker. Savile Row enjoy a reputation for outstanding quality and value for money. Some of their brushes are said to be rather soft and floppy. This isn't. At 20mm knot with a loft of 48mm ( Advertised as 50mm) it has a firm backbone which makes it a versatile brush to handle soaps and creams with equal effectiveness. The silvertip hair makes it soft on the face and it is a perfect size to retain control over face lathering. It is a third of the price of the same size High Mountain White Plisson. Yet it feels just as luxurious. If the Plisson is the Queen of my brushes and the Astor Simpson the King, this is the Prince. It's a pity it is only sold in the USA.

Knot 20mm

Loft 48mm

Handle 46mm

Height 96mm

Price $85 USA ( exc tax)

Other reviews

B&B

H L Thater 4125/0 Chubby 1

2010-02-18T19:01:00.000Z

The 4125/0 is a small high quality silvertip that was around £87. Handle just 42mm, 22mm knot and 48mm loft. Not a lot of brush for the price. The knot is dense and soft with more than adequate backbone. So this is an excellent silvertip that will handle creams and soaps alike. A pleasant size for face lathering. At first, I found the handle uncomfortably small. But as always, once you get used to a brush, it will generally serve you well. I'm pleased to have this in my collection. Once again - not available in the UK. So why make the effort to buy if a brand is not easily available? It's really not that good, and it's expensive.

Just two final points. I was told before ordering this brush that the loft was 52mm. It's 4mm difference is a lot. It's a different brush to my expectation. I was later told that it should have been 50mm. That just doesn't tie in with the website data (Straight Razor Designs) The handle also had two specs of white paint which should have been spotted by someone at the factory before shipment. When you pay a high price for something you don't expect this. But it's still a fun brush to use.

Knot 22mm

Loft 48mm

Handle 42mm

Height 90mm

Price £87

Other reviews

SMF

Muhle synthetic silvertip

2010-02-18T04:31:00.000Z

This is a synthetic brush claimed to have the characteristics of a real silvertip shaving brush. First, the basics. This has an excellent resin imitation horn handle. The brush fibres bear some similarity to silvertip but without particularly light tips. When dry, the fibres feel soft to the touch. The brush looks good, feels good when dry, has a nice springy backbone and creates superb abundant lather. Paint the lather on and it's effective. But the brush is a little stiff so doesn't feel as luxurious as a genuine silvertip. As long as you don't mind prickly tips it's good for face lathering with circular and scrubby motions.
This is a synthetic brush which does its job. But it is not equivalent to a silvertip. It may look like one, but it doesn't perform like one. If you have scruples about using animal hair it's a way in to traditional shaving. I'm pleased to have the brush as an example of a synthetic brush made by a top quality brand but it will not be used much in comparison to my badger and boar brushes.

The brush comes with good quality packaging and a tiny brush which I haven't tried to use - yet!

Knot 21 mm, loft 51 mm, handle height 47 mm Price 35 euros plus 7.50 shipping.

Vie - Long 16510 Silvertip Badger

2010-02-17T21:23:00.005Z

Out of the box

After use

This is an extraordinary brush. It has the softest, silkiest hair of any of my brushes. Moderate density allied to a 23mmm knot and 60mm loft ensures that it is exceptionally floppy and flexible. Look how it blooms!

This is a brush for bowl lathering cream users who simply want to paint on their lather with a soft gentle brush that is kind to the skin. This is not for face lathering if you want an exfoliating massage with scrubbing or circular motions.

Vie Long custom Horse Hair

2010-02-17T13:56:00.000Z

This is a limited edition brush for members of the Pogonotomy Shaving Forum.

After use

This brush is an extra hair horse hair brush with a loft of 52 mm and a 20 mm. It has a small acrylic handle, just 42 mm high with a 28 mm diameter.

The hair is very different to anything I've used before. It's not very dense yet it has a reasonable backbone with a 52 mm loft. When dry the hair feels soft and not prickly.

I have used the brush in a variety of ways including bowl and face lathering with both soaps and creams. The most striking feature of the brush is the amount and texture of the lather created. No doubt with more practice I could make a thicker and more creamy lather but my early efforts have produced lather rather more "fluffy" than with a badger brush - a bit like whipped cream. This is not a criticism - I like the lather and it works effectively.

By far the most satisfying way to use this brush is to make the lather in a bowl and to just paint it on. The handle is easy to hold and the brush hair is firm enough to ensure the brush is easy to control as you paint the lather on. When lathering directly on your face in circular motions the hair feels prickly, rather similar to some pure badger brushes.

While producing prodigious amount of lather, not a lot remains in the brush. That's why so much lather gets made in a bowl. I had very little lather left in the brush for my final squeeze compared with what I normally get with badger brushes.

Like any brush, it takes time to yield up its secrets. Once you figure this brush out it will serve you well. For those with scruples about the use of badger hair, this type of brush could prove a satisfactory alternative to boar and synthetic brushes.

Most horse hair brushes tend to have lofts in the 55 to 60 mm range - I may try one of those soon. This limited edition brush cost around £24 delivered. At the price it is good value.

Simpsons Astor Super

2010-02-16T17:53:00.010Z

A limited edition to mark the 90th anniversary of Simpsons brushes. 90 made of an old Simpsons design using two band super hair. This is no 73.It has a faux horn handle and all engraving is in gold ink. Forget the collector angle - this is a superb brush. The 22mm knot head is large enough for anyone. A superb face latherer and a great all rounder. Priced at £180 it is more than a match for high priced Plissons and Rooneys. A truly delightful brush. It delivers.

Knot 22mm

Loft 52mm

Handle 56mm

Height 108mm

Price £180

Simpsons Tulip 1 Super

2010-02-16T17:53:00.008Z

Another popular Simpsons brush, available in four sizes in Super Badger grade. If you search around you can also get it in two band. This is the smallest size. Although a very well made brush this size is just too small for my liking but will suit many who like a small brush with a short loft for face lathering.

Knot 21mm

Loft 45mm

Handle 46mm

Height 91mm

Price £88

Other reviews

None found!

Simpsons Polo 14 Best Badger

2010-02-16T17:52:00.008Z

I ordered this directly from Progress Vulfix. I confess that I haven't used it yet. It would seem such a pity to disturb it. It is the largest brush presently in production intended for regular use. The quality is superb. The Best Badger hair feels as good as the Super grade. The shape of the Polo handle is not among the more popular in the Simpsons range but it is a very practical shape ensuring that not much lather needs get close to your fingers. It is a truly enormous brush that must overwhelm your face unless you are exceptionally large yourself. Until I test it, the brush will remain towering above the others in my display cabinet. Here it is alongside a Wee Scot.

Loft 57 mm

Handle 82 mm

Height 139 mm

Knot 34 mm

Price £214

Simpsons PJ2 Super 2 Band

2010-02-16T17:52:00.007Z

This for me is just about the perfect brush. Stiff enough to provide adequate backbone for hard soaps yet soft tips that have a luxurious feel during lathering. And just the right size.Another winner from Simpsons.

Knot 21mm

Loft 50mm

Handle 55m

Height 108mm

Price £103

Other reviews

TSR

Simpsons Duke 3 Best

2010-02-16T17:52:00.006Z

Mine and a few other opinions are here:

TSR

Knot 23mm

Loft 46mm

Handle 48mm

Height 94mm

Price £74

Other reviews

'I really enjoy this brush. It seems to be the perfect all around brush. It can be used for anything you fancy be it soaps, cream, bowl or face lather. Definitly an all purpose brush, at a great price too'.

Simpsons Chubby 2 Best

2010-02-16T17:51:00.013Z

Here it is after being used a few times

This is an extraordinary brush. Superb quality. Like no other. Why anyone would want a Chubby 3 is beyond my comprehension. Unless a real giant likes to shave. And like other Simpsons Best grades it is soft tipped enough to make you question the need for anything more. This is the ultimate soap brush for a face latherer. Just swirl it over a puck and you will understand the use of the term "explodes with lather" Lather anyway you like on your face and enjoy the thrill of a masterpiece in action. Need I say more? Yes.

I have heard it said that there really should be a Chubby 1.5. This is considered too unwieldy by some while the Chubby 1 is a shade too small. I agree. Much as I love this brush I really do prefer to work with a brush smaller than this with which I can exercise more control. But I will include this brush among the few I will use in a rotation. I'll give it an occasional run out - it's such an experience! Do have a look at the other review below. I didn't have any shedding with this brush - an issue raised by the other review.

Knot 27mm

Loft 50mm

Handle 45mm

Height 95mm

Price £114

Other reviews

TSR (A salutary tale!)

Simpsons PJ 2 Best

2010-02-16T17:51:00.012Z

Another superb Simpsons brush. Although engraved "Best Badger" it's actually a two band for which you would normally pay a lot more. An excellent all round brush that will make a fine job of any approach you want to adopt. Excellent with soaps, creams and different methods of face lathering. Tips quite firm when new but will soon soften up. 21mm knot still produces a brush head that is large enough and easy to control.

Knot 21mm

Loft 50mm

Handle 55mm

Height 88mm

Price £74

Other reviews

B&B

TSR

Simpsons Berkeley 46 Best Badger

2010-02-16T17:50:00.000Z

One of the modest Simpsons, a Best Badger with a 20mm knot. Simpsons Best are very soft when dry and only a little bit scritchy when lathering, but it does notice in comparison with the higher priced Simpsons. The 45mm loft makes this quite a small brush which will appeal to many face latherers. The knot is dense enough for all purposes. The usual quality one expects although it has shed the odd hair. Less glamourous compared with some other relatives but a great workhorse for a reasonable price.

Knot 20mm

Loft 45mm

Handle 45mm

Height 90mm

Price £35

Other reviews

B&B

The Wee Scot

2010-02-16T17:49:00.000Z

It's the one on the right! It's hard to imagine anyone buying this brush for regular use. It is so small. Yet it does whip up a surprising amount of lather and can do enough for a perfectly adequate shave. It is the usual high quality one comes to expect from the Simpsons brand. A novelty brush I'm pleased to have. Would I have bought it if I hadn't wanted it for my blog? I doubt it.

Knot 14mm

Loft 36mm

Handle 31mm

Height 67mm

Price £26

More opinions

B&B

Simpsons Keyhole 2 Best Badger

2010-02-16T17:48:00.001Z

This handle forces you to hold the bottom half yet it is comfortable non the less. Another smaller brush that may appeal to face latherers. The Best badger grade is high quality, the knot has a firm backbone and soft tips and generates adequate lather. It's a matter of personal preference but using the brush again confirmed my liking for the next size up from a 20mm/45mm brush head. The price is quite a jump from the Beaufort B1 Pure Badger which is the next size and grade down from this.

Handle 52 mm

Loft 45 mm

Height 97 mm

Knot 20 mm

Price £62

Other reviews

None found

Simpsons Beaufort B1 Pure Badger

2010-02-16T17:48:00.000Z

This is one of the smaller and affordable Simpsons brushes that may appeal to face latherers. The quality of this pure badger hair is excellent. Slightly prickly but not uncomfortable. Produces adequate lather and of a size that enables complete control over applying lather where you want it. A quality brush for a fair price. Just a little too small for me to use as one of my regulars.

Handle 47 mm

Loft 42 mm

Height 89 mm

Knot 18 mm

Price £20

Other reviews

TSR

Simpsons Emperor 1 Super Badger

2010-02-16T17:46:00.000Z

Super Badger is the top Simpsons grade. Their Best Badger grade is so good that this is really just a small step up in softness for which you grit your teeth and pay the price if you want the top quality. This is a small brush which gives great control for face latherers. Lather is easy to create and apply. A real quality brush for which you pay a high price. But you need to have a strong preference for the shape of the handle and the size of the brush head to justify this investment.

Handle 54 mm

Loft 44 mm

Height 98 mm

Knot 19 mm

Price £74

Other reviews

None found

Plisson High Mountain White

2010-02-16T17:40:00.009Z

When handling this brush it feels soft and floppy. But when lathering on your face it somehow manages to have a sufficient firmness to make it a satisfying experience. This is the unique High Mountain White hair of the Plisson badger grades. If my Simpson Astor is my King of brushes, this little Plisson is a worthy Queen. Perfect lather with soaps and creams and just a great performer. It is incredibly soft and may not appeal to a hardened face latherer who prefers a stiffish brush for an exfoliating massage. Although it has a knot of just 20mm it has a relatively large head which is more than adequate. Outstanding quality. But a very high price, especially for such a small brush. Is it worth it? No. But I'm really pleased to have it. How could my collection be complete without it? I just paid the price and gritted my teeth.

Knot 20mm

Loft 51mm

Handle 46mm

Height 99mm

Price £189

Plisson European Grey

2010-02-16T17:39:00.005Z

Knot 20mm

Loft 53mm

Handle 46mm

Height 99mm

Price £110

This brush looks good. But has to be the worst value brush in my collection. It is soft and floppy and almost as prickly as the pure black badger brush. Stick to lathering with painting motion and it will feel good. But if that is all you wish to do you can match the performance at less than half this price. The brush looks good and is an example of a popular grade by a famous maker so I will settle for it being a legitimate member of a collection. But for serious regular shaving it doesn't come near the quality of many brushes at much lower prices.

Plisson Pure

2010-02-16T17:38:00.006Z

Knot 22mm

Loft 56mm

Handle 50mm

Height 106mm

Price £68

This is an unusual brush. Pure is the coarsest grade of badger hair so £68 is a hefty price to pay for such a brush. But this is a Plisson. This is simply a beautiful specimen. Photos don't do it justice. The brown/black hairs are topped by flecks of silver in the tips. The brush is soft and floppy but lathers well and if painted on will provide a sense of luxury. The tips are prickly but not uncomfortable when gently massaging with circular motions. I bought this brush from the viewpoint of a collector rather than a regular user. In that context I am delighted to have it. The Plisson handle and logo are very attractive and look good on display. But for serious regular use, there is much better value elsewhere.

Rooney 1/2 Finest

2010-02-16T16:31:00.011Z

This is one of the elite brushes made from rare high mountain badger hair. This may have been one of the last as it is no longer available due to difficulties of sourcing the hair. It has the same handle as the Rooney Style 1 medium best badger and costs an extra £142 - for the special hair?

So one has to expect something truly exceptional with this brush.

The first thing I noticed was an overpowering smell of mothballs. Even after several latherings, it was still there. After several weeks, it finally went. And as you would expect, it does produce all the lather you need, very effectively.

Although"only" a medium 24mm knot size, this is a big brush with a 56mm loft. The tips are indeed soft. But no more so than many others. It is a relatively floppy brush with moderate backbone just about adequate to face lather with circular motions. So it's really best as a cream brush using painting motions. And it's excellent when you use it like that. But once you limit it to that it is no better than many other brushes you can buy for well below £100. But there is no doubt that is does have an edge over most of the competition. Although a very fine brush, this is does come at a very high price that I suspect most people won't think is justified. But I'm pleased I have it and I will use it regularly and enjoy it.

Knot 24mm

Loft

56mm

Handle 47mm

Height 103mm

Price £190

Other reviews

Now here is another point of view. The reviewer describes a brush that I don't have or has an entirely different interpretation of the word stiff. My brush is floppy - it has only a moderate backbone or stiffness. Perhaps I've been unlucky.

B&B

Rooney Heritage Stubby 2

2010-02-16T16:28:00.007Z

This is a genuine all rounder. A firm backbone to lather from the hardest of soaps, yet soft tips. Excellent for face lathering in circular motion. Great latherer. This is a super badger brush from the Heritage range. Not easy to find in the UK at the time of writing. It is just a little too large for my personal taste. The smaller Alibaba 2 suits me better. It's also not great value for money. At this price, Simpson offer better alternatives.

Knot 24mm

Loft 48mm

Handle 48mm

Height 96mm

Price $154.99 USA

Other reviews

B&B

TSR

Rooney Heritage Alibaba 2

2010-02-16T16:27:00.003Z

This is a very good all rounder. For a 20mm knot it is quite a size. The fan shape head blooms after use yet it is far from floppy. It has the backbone needed for soaps and face lathering. Another 2 band Super grade. It ticks all the boxes. Except price. Difficult to find in the UK - I shouldn't think there would be much demand at the price. Why it is more expensive than the Heritage Stubby 2 (24mm knot) is beyond me. You will find better performers for a lot less.

Knot 20mm

Loft 48mm

Handle 54mm

Height 102mm

Price $175.99 USA

Rooney 2/1 Best

2010-02-16T16:24:00.004Z

This is Rooney trying to have a brush for everyone. This is not the usual dense Rooney. It is soft and floppy and may appeal to cream users who prefer to paint on their lather. The quality of the best badger head is very good - really very close to a super or silvertip grade. Great latherer and a nice soft feel on your face. A poor man's Edwin Jagger silvertip? A BK4 feel alike? At this price you would be better off with a Vulfix 2234 -a super grade and just a bit firmer to make it a better all round brush. This is more a £40 than £50 brush in my opinion.

Knot 22mm

Loft 50mm

Handle 55mm

Height 105mm

Price £50

Rooney 3/1 Silvertip

2010-02-16T16:21:00.010Z

I show photos of the new and used brush - quite a bloomer, although I would not describe this as a floppy brush. It is an excellent all rounder generating lather with ease. Provides all the options for face and bowl lathering with soaps and creams. An ideal size, easy to feel in control with a nice size handle and brush head. But at £65 it's a hefty price for this size of brush compared with some of its rivals.

(The other brush is the Rooney Style 1 small size)

Knot 22mm

Loft 45mm

Handle 50mm

Height 95mm

Price £65

Rooney 3/1 Best

2010-02-16T16:21:00.009Z

The 3 series are the all rounders of the Rooney range. It will meet the needs of the soap and cream user and be fine for face lathering or making lather in a bowl. This best badger is a fair performer but as with many UK Rooneys there is better value elsewhere. Vulfix and Kent have brushes that will outperform for less than £55.

Knot 22mm

Loft 45mm

Handle 50mm

Height 95mm

Price £55

Rooney 3/1 Pure

2010-02-16T16:20:00.002Z

The other end of the Rooney range - this is the pure version of the 3 series of all rounders. A scrubby brush that may appeal to face latherers who want to give a decent exfoliating massage. It has the usual prickly feel you expect with this hair grade. It's better value than some Rooneys at £35 in the UK.

Knot 22mm

Loft 45mm

Handle 50mm

Height 95mm

Price £35

Rooney 1/2 Super

2010-02-16T16:14:00.003Z

This is a large floppy brush that is not best suited to face lathering with circular motions. Once you say that about about a brush and use it painting style you start to notice fewer differences between brushes. It's smaller brother is a much better all round brush - much more versatile. For all that, this has a luxurious feel, lathers well and within its limitations will perform well.

Knot 24mm

Loft 49mm

Handle 48mm

Height 97mm

Price $99 from USA

Rooney 1/1 Super

2010-02-16T16:13:00.008Z

This is the little Rooney. A lot smaller than the medium version shown in the second photo. I also show it with the Rooney 3/1 Silvertip and the knots of both brushes. I am a little confused about the super and silvertip grades. Super is said to be redressed or resorted silvertip that is regraded in England. Any short or twisted hairs are removed leaving the hair feeling softer and giving the brush a lighter appearance. My 1/1 super and 3/1 silvertip don't bear this out. The super has a tighter head and the hairs are not as soft as the silvertip.

The super 1/1 is thought by many to be an ideal soap and face lathering brush. It is quite scrubby and the brush head is a highly effective latherer but soft tipped? Mine isn't - it's not uncomfortable, but not as pleasant to use as the 3/1 silvertip. The 1/1 handle is quite short and it doesn't make it easy to hold. I really see nothing to justify buying this brush in preference to the 3/1 silvertip.

Knot 22mm

Loft 45mm

Handle 43mm

Height 88mm

Price £50 (USA)

Other reviews

B&B

Interesting discussion!

Taylor of Old Bond Street Imitation badger

2010-02-16T12:05:00.002Z

This imitation badger performs rather like a boar brush. Slightly pointed feel to the head it is much softer than a boar and makes a good soap brush. It doesn't hold much lather but it's easy to top up with a swirl on the puck. Feels really soft using short to and fro strokes but it does work in circular motions once you find the best way of doing it. If you have something against the real thing this is worth checking out.

Knot 22mm

Loft 52mm

Handle 52mm

Height 104mm

Price £24

Truefitt & Hill Super badger

2010-02-16T12:01:00.002Z

This really is a delightful little brush. Despite being quite a soft brush, the low loft size enables it to be a very effective soap/face lathering performer. It's just a little too small for my liking.I measured the knot size at the base but it seems a very small head compared with other 20mm knot brushes. Looks very much like the Vulfix 374 but slightly different dimensions. Well worth a look on a visit to T&H.

Knot 20m

Loft 44mm

Handle 48mm

Height 92mm

Price £43

Acca Kappa Silvertip

2010-02-16T11:58:00.006Z

I bought this brush at 50% off the list price. It is beautifully packaged and presented on a plastic plinth for display in a collection. It is a soft silvertip with a zebra wood handle and performs very well as a cream brush. Perhaps the loft is a little too high to give the sort of backbone preferred by soap users. This will stay unused in my collection until and unless curiosity gets the better of me.

I finally gave my little Acca Kappa a run out today. This is a soft silvertip 21mm knot with a 52mm loft. Feels floppy and soft. So I used it with my TOBS Mr Taylor and lathered up in a bowl and just used the AK as a paint brush. And what a delight it was! For floppy, read luxurious. Surely with this type of brush it just has to be cream, bowl, paint and it is then pure luxury. Enough lather for several passes and some to spare. This brush retailed at £120 and was on offer at TGS for 50%. Not surprisingly it has the best packaging of any brush I've seen - including High Mountain White and Rooney Finest. It's really a collector's brush. I'm keeping it - in my collection.

Knot 21mm

Loft 52mm

Handle 41mm

Height 93mm

Price £120

Barny badger

2010-02-16T08:08:00.001Z

This was given to me by a friend known as Barny. It's very old. The original owner bought a new Gillette Single Ring razor in 1916. A tiny brush which performs well. I put it here to remind you that there may be some old brushes in your family vaults that are worth trying. It's too small for me for regular use. The sort of thing to chuck in a travel bag.

Knot 19mm

Loft 38mm

Handle 40mm

Height 78mm.

Price unknown

Other reviews

The internet wasn't even imagined when this little brush was made.

Tweezerman badger

2010-02-16T08:01:00.000Z

If my Kent BK4 is floppy then this is a true scrubby. Don't overdo face lathering or you will rip your skin off. When I first used it, I nearly threw it in the bin, it was so rough. But after a few sessions to soften it up it performs surprisingly well. Best to dig in your hard soaps and face lather with it - gently! Made in Korea - John Lewis are not hung up about where their products are made - its good value at around £10.

Knot 22mm

Loft 49mm

Handle 50mm

Height 99mm

Price £10

I'm not linking to other reviews because I'm not sure exactly which this model is. But do check out the brand - it may suit you.

Executive Shaving Best badger

2010-02-15T16:48:00.000Z

This is the worst example of a so called best badger brush I have come across. It is no more than pure badger quality and even then doesn't match up. It's soft, floppy, prickly and even at just £24, overpriced. Give it a miss. It does create lather and does get it on your face. If you do have it, just paint it on and save yourself from the prickles.

Knot 22mm

Loft 48mm

Handle 56mm

Price £24

Wilkinson bristle

2010-02-15T16:39:00.000Z

A typical supermarket cheapie. It gets you started. It cost £5 and that's all it's worth. Not bad but really doesn't hold much lather. You will soon want to move on. For just a few pounds more, you can get a decent brush.

Omega 10005

2010-02-13T21:06:00.005Z

This is a pure bristle brush. Most unusual. It is very firm, almost pointed, yet it is a decent brush for face lathering if you find the right technique. I find that all boar/bristle brushes take time to break in and to learn how best to use them. I find this works best with rapid to and fro movements. At £8 it's another of those brushes an enthusiast will be tempted to try out. Trouble is, if you buy too many, you could have bought a decent badger for the money you have paid out on several cheap boars. Take a good look at the TSR thread to which I provide a link below. Someone loves it!

Knot 22mm

Loft 55mm

Handle 55mm

Height 110mm

Price £8

Other reviews

TSR

Omega 31064

2010-02-13T21:05:00.005Z

This is the softest of my Omega/Semogue brushes and my least favourite. But it does still produce a decent all round job. It's just too floppy for my liking and with a 60mm loft, just splays around when lathering in circular motions - stick to swift to and fro movements to get the best out of it. But take a look at the other review for another viewpoint.

Knot 25mm

Loft 60mm

Handle 55mm

Height 115mm

Price £18

Other reviews

B&B

2010-02-13T11:35:00.001Z

The 1305 is an excellent boar brush. For me, it comes into it's own when I use it to make a lather from soap pucks. I had no problem quickly breaking it in - I just spent a little time early on making a lather, rinsing then repeating about 3 or 4 times. Did that again the following day and it seemed pretty soft to me. It makes great lather from creams and soap sticks so it is a versatile all rounder. This little beauty for less than £10 is remarkable value. The price is higher now.

Knot 22mm

Loft 55mm

Handle 57mm

Height 112mm

Price £13

Other reviews

TSR
SMF

Semogue LE 2009

2010-02-13T11:22:00.000Z

I'm going to do this differently. Take a look at this to see why.

Semogue LE 2009

Semogue LE 2010

2010-02-13T11:21:00.000Z

Another great brush from Semogue. A lovely silvertip which has an unusual shape. Echos of the boar shapes they use - a sort of cross between bulb and fan shape, but it works well. The knot is dense and has a firm backbone, but not too much. This is a very fine silvertip brush, and it was a limited edition of 100, so at 65 euros, it was good value.

You can see more details here:

Semogue LE 2010

Custom brush -Fido's LE 2010

2010-02-13T07:23:00.002Z

There's only one of these. Every serious shaver should have at least one custom made brush. It's great value. This was made for me by neocaligatio of The Shaving Room forum. Great to deal with.It has a Golden Nib 24mm Finest with 20% extra hair. A superb soap brush and face latherer. Imitation ivory (polyecter) handle, nice and chunky for a real man. There must be some out there. I could happily throw away the rest of my brushes and stick with this one. But it would be such a waste.

Knot 24mm

Loft 52mm

Handle 50mm

Height 102mm

Price - Trade secret.

Other reviews

There's only one.

Custom brush - Rudy Vey

2010-02-13T07:22:00.006Z

Made from Redwood Burl by Rudy Vey with a silvertip knot hand made by Bernd Blos of shavemac. A lovely quality brush mainly for use with creams but dense enough to produce fine lather from hard soaps. Another enjoyable experience, selecting the wood and the dimensions of the brush. You get exactly what you want when you use a custom brush maker. This is how the brush looks after a few latherings:

Handle 53mm

Loft 52mm

Height 105mm

Knot 23mm

Custom brush - Neon Streamer

2010-02-13T07:22:00.001Z

A lovely brush by Beejay, a member of TSR forum. This is a neon streamer fly fishing hook embedded in an acrylic handle with a super badger knot. A real display model not used yet. But I will succumb soon.

Knot 20 mm

Loft 52 mm

Handle 62 mm

Height 114 mm

Price - great value!

shavemac 177

2010-02-12T09:07:00.000Z

This is a Premier league brush. A silvertip. When dry, the tips feel a little course. When wet, they are soft and gentle. This brush is just firm enough to overcome accusations of excess floppiness. As with other silvertips it dispels the myth that you need a solid backbone to lather with soaps. I used it today with an old Yardley hard soap and it lathered superbly. Just firm enough for face lathering in circular motions it has a soft luxurious feel on your face. At 23mm knot it is plenty big enough. A truly fine brush from a great maker with an outstanding reputation for customer service.

Knot 23mm

Loft 54mm

Handle 50mm

Height 104mm

Price £75

Other reviews

B&B

"So what makes it the “perfect” brush- it’s soft- but not floppy, It's very easy to make a great lather with, its flexible- but not moppy. Dense enough not to deflect too much. Yet still cashmere soft on my face" Anon.

Vulfix 2234 Super badger

2010-02-09T07:07:00.001Z

This is an interesting brush. Soft, a bit floppy, yet surprisingly firm in use. Similar in size to the Kent BK4 it has a similar luxurious feel, but the added firmness of the super badger makes it a more effective face latherer in circular motion. This is a really good all round brush that should be on any short list below the £50 mark.

Knot 22mm

Loft 47mm

Handle 53mm

Height 100mm

Price £47

Other reviews

B&B

SMF (interesting references)

Vulfix 404 Grosvenor badger/boar mix

2010-02-09T06:53:00.001Z

At £8, you have to have one of these, even if to just have one below a tenner. A very firm brush ideal for soaps it will turn in a display that will make you wonder why high end brushes cost so much. It has a nice robust handle of decent size and the quality looks just the same. Its just the knot that's different. A great little brush. I wrote a fuller review on TSR to which I provide a link below.

Knot 21mm

Loft 47mm

Handle 53mm

Height 100mm

Price £8

Other reviews

TSR

Vulfix Pure badger 2197

2010-02-09T06:42:00.003Z

Pure badger is the cheapest badger grade, considered rather prickly. Just a quick look and you notice the quality of the hair doesn't match the higher grades. This is reflected in the price of pure badger brushes. Despite this, the Vulfix pure gives a decent performance. It feels quite soft yet it generates decent lathers with soaps. When face lathering with a circular motion the tips are slightly prickly but once you get cracking it really isn't a big issue. Paint your lather to and fro and it will provide a nice soft feel. This is a good badger brush at an affordable price.

Knot 19mm

Loft 48mm

Handle 50mm

Height 98mm

Price £27

Edwin Jagger Silvertip medium

2010-02-08T12:08:00.001Z

This medium size is actually a 21mm knot imitation ivory brush. A great all round performer. The brush head is small enough to give you options for face lathering. Soft, luxurious, great lather with soaps and creams. The slight floppyness doesn't detract from its effectiveness. My only quibble is the size of the handle - just a tad too small for my comfort. A great little brush though.

Knot 21mm

Loft 50mm

Handle 37mm

Height 87mm

Price £67

Other reviews

B&B

Edwin Jagger Silvertip large

2010-02-08T12:00:00.000Z

This is incredbly soft and will appeal to those with sensitive skin. But this also makes it floppy and just a little unwieldy for me for use with soaps and face lathering. Used with creams and soaps with a painting motion it will serve you well. A luxurious brush. Imitation horn handle. All these things are a matter of personal preference and judgement, but take a look at the medium Jagger (21mm knot) and the Rooney Silvertip (22mm knot) And look at the relative loft heights. They make such a difference!

Knot 23mm

Loft 50mm

Handle 42mm

Height 92mm

Price £89

Other reviews

None found!

Edwin Jagger Super large

2010-02-08T11:27:00.002Z

Run this super badger over your face when dry and it will feel softer than the best badger. But when applying lather the difference is barely noticeable. This is floppy and while great for creams with a painting motion it just feels clumsy with a soap puck. And it splays out when lathering with a circular motion. Find your best way to use it and it will be a great performer. But it's not a versatile brush. Like other Jaggers it does create great lather and plenty of it.

Knot 23mm

Loft 53mm

Handle 50mm

Height 103mm

Price £46

Other reviews

B&B carry reviews of smaller and larger sizes but not fair to compare this directly.

Edwin Jagger Best Large

2010-02-08T11:01:00.000Z

All Edwin Jagger brushes tend towards the soft and floppy. This best badger with imitation horn handle is a really effective performer.Slightly firmer than silvertip, not particularly dense, it lathers well on your face and feels really soft even when using a scrubby circular motion. Not much backbone, but it really does do a good job with soaps and creams alike. The fan shaped head in full bloom after use gives it the appearance of a much larger brush than one would expect with a 23mm knot. Good value.

Knot 23mm

Loft 54mm

Handle 51mm

Height 105mm

Price £34

Other reviews

B&B (medium version)

Travel brushes

2010-02-07T23:47:00.000Z

I have never seen the point of a "Travel" brush. I just take out a couple of favourites and take them with me. Unlikely to include my Polo 14 but I have plenty that will do. But it seemed a good idea to add a couple more brushes to my Fido's Shaving Brush Blog. And here they are, the ones I bought on a visit to London.

This has a 43mm handle, 19mm knot, 43mm loft. It's a Super Badger, made for DRH by Edwin Jagger. Cost £50. The same brush with a higher loft can be bought direct with the Jagger logo for £32. A lot for a logo, but DRH is a fantastic shop in a world famous shopping location. As for the brush, typically soft Jagger hair makes it seem bigger than its size on your face. It performed really well and is comfortable to hold.

This is the TOBS version of a little Vulfix travel brush. A 20mm Super Badger knot, loft 43mm and a little handle 37mm high. A good performer although not so comfortable in hand as the DRH. At £39.95 including the case, not such a large premium fot the shop logo.

Kent BK2 Grey badger

2010-02-07T17:44:00.002Z

This is described by Kent as pure grey badger, yet it is surprisingly soft tipped yet a little firmer than the BK4. It is claimed to have a loft of 52mm compared with 55mm for the BK4. Look closely at the photo to see if you can spot a difference. In my view despite its lower price, the BK2 is a better all round performer than the BK4. Not a dense brush, it does produce great lather and can be a reasonably versatile face latherer in both painting and circular motions. Of my group of four it does a good job at by far the lowest price of my little group of four.

Knot 22mm approx

Loft 52mm

Handle 50mm

Height 102mm

Price £30

Other reviews

B&B

Amazon

SMF discussion

Kent BK4 Silvertip

2010-02-07T16:03:00.000Z

The BK4 is a very popular brush with excellent reviews. It is the softest, and perhaps most floppy in my collection. The very opposite of scrubby. If you want to face lather using the tips of the brush in circular motions, move on. If you like to paint your lather on, you won't find a more luxurious feeling from many other brushes. It is far from dense and although approximately a 22mm knot, it seems much smaller because of its relatively low density. Personally, I prefer a firmer brush but plenty of people love it. It has the common silvertip ability to create great lather. Have a close look at the photos to give some idea of how it compares with the other Kents.

Knot 22mm approx

Loft 55mm

Handle 50mm

Height 95mm

Price £50

Other reviews

B&B

Shave Den

Kent H8 Best badger

2010-02-07T13:41:00.002Z

Each maker seems to have a different quality of best badger. This is not quite up to the standard of a Simpson best - but it costs less. It is quite a firm brush, good with soaps and creams. Lather in a bowl and paint it on and it will feel soft and luxurious. It face lathers well too - it has a decent backbone A good size brush, and priced the same as the smaller BK4 silvertip, it gives it a run for its money. Plentiful lather for several passes. A nice looking well made brush.

Knot (estimate) 27mm

Loft 55mm

Handle 55mm

Height 110mm

Price £50

Other reviews

Not specifically the H8 but a discussion about it and other Kent brushes:

Shave Den

Kent BK8 Silvertip

2010-02-07T11:49:00.002Z

The Kent sits between two Jagger silvertips - one medium, one large. It was my first good quality badger brush and it is still one of my favourites It is soft and looks floppy. But it doesn't behave like a floppy. It is surprisingly firm and great for face lathering with creams and soaps. This really disproves the myth that silvertips are not also capable of producing excellent results with hard soaps. It doesn't have the backbone of some of the dense firmer brushes yet truly is a great all rounder.But it is sufficiently dense to produce all the lather you need plus some more. A fine quality brush. It's the largest of my brushes - I wouldn't want a bigger one. The BK12 must be a monster!

Note that all Kent brushes are imprinted with the Pure Badger mark. This is a silvertip!

Knot (my estimate) 27mm

Loft 55mm

Handle 55mm

Height 110mm

Price £80

Other reviews

SRP

B&B

Frank Shaving brushes

2010-02-07T11:48:00.000Z

Since I published this blog, Frank Shaving, an established Chinese brush maker have launched their own brand of brushes which they have been selling direct fom China through agents on Ebay. The low prices have attracted a lot of attention on the shaving forums. I decided to buy the two most popular and I describe them here.

Finest

Silvertip

I have used the Finest several times and the Silvertip just twice. Anyone who has read my shaving brush blog will appreciate the wide variety of brushes I have been able to test and will have noted many enthusiastic reviews.

Frank Shaving have been around for a long time. But only recently have they decided to market their own brand through an agent in China operating on Ebay. That is the key to their prices together with the use of moulded handles. A Chinese agent is likely to be satisfied with a return far less than a retailer in the West.

The Finest brush is priced at $9.99 with $6.99 for shipping to the UK. At that price it compares well with any brush below £20 and with some even higher. The loft on my brush is 52 mm so it has decent backbone. This is not a typical two band brush to compare with Simpsons, Rooneys and others, the tips are not as soft. The hair is more like a very good quality pure badger. It lathers well and is pleasant to use for face lathering. All in all great value. The logo went after a couple of sessions, but that's acceptable for a brush of this price.

The silvertip was $23.99 plus $6.99 delivery. A very cheap silvertip. It has a loft of 48 mm. Having used silvertips by all the major brands I have to say it doesn't match the quality of others I have tried. But is it it good value? Perhaps for what it is, the price is about right. But the star is clearly the Frank Finest. If I wanted a brush for my collection, that would be my choice.

Brush Reviews

2010-02-07T07:06:00.000Z

All my brushes were bought because they were highly rated by other enthusiasts. The prices of my brushes range from £5 to £200 +. Some are great value, others are less so. I have soft ones, firm ones, prickly ones. Some are great for face lathering with circular motions, others can be used only paint style. I'm not going to write lengthy perceptive reviews. I'm not that way inclined. I'll just provide photos, dimensions and a brief comment on key characteristics. And where I have found them, I will provide links to other reviews. So if a brush takes your fancy, you can at least see some other opinions.

This will take a while, because before I review a brush I will use it again to ensure an up to date recollection of it.

Other makers and brands

2010-02-06T12:02:00.001Z

The rest so far:

In transit:

Plisson High Mountain, European Grey, Savile Row and Rooney Finest.

UK Shaving Brushes

2010-02-06T06:34:00.000Z

Here are my UK Shaving Brushes so far:

Fido's shaving brush collection

2010-02-05T07:17:00.000Z

I love collecting. I love shaving. Dangerous combination with only one outcome!

So I decided to collect shaving brushes. My mission is to collect examples of all the famous brands and makers across the price/quality range - within reason - no gold plated handles needed here! I will post photos of each brush and provide specifications and then offer my opinion of the performance and value.

I will begin by posting photos and I will add the detail later.

A problem to resolve was where to keep the brushes. Here's my solution at present. Out of the way.

Other makers and brands

2010-02-05T06:57:00.000Z

I have highlighted so far the most popular makers and brands that figure prominently on internet forums. There are others, including Trumpers, TOBS and Truefit&Hill who have their own brand name brushes made for them. And supermarkets carry cheap brushes made by the likes of Wilkinsons and other cheap imports like Tweezerman from Korea. All these brushes do the job. Lots to choose from and you can spend as much or as little as you like as you will see from my future posts.

Custom Brush Makers

2010-02-05T06:56:00.000Z

One of the best value ways of getting a shaving brush is to approach someone who will make a brush especially for you. A custom brush maker. You could make one yourself if you have woodturning skills. You can specify the type, shape and loft of the knot you want, the shape, dimensions and materials for the handle. And it will cost a lot less and be as good as many high end brushes.

If you find your way on to a shaving forum, you will come across a brush maker. There are three on TSR - all turn out excellent brushes. This one is by neocaligatio.

Savile Row

2010-02-05T06:45:00.001Z

Now this is interesting. This is not made in London. It's just a brand name. These brushes were commissioned by QEDusa.com and they are available only on their website. The forums have not identified the maker - why should they? QED decided what they wanted, got someone to make them, and sell them. Simple really! And the brushes are rated very highly. Check them out here

QED

Omega

2010-02-05T06:32:00.000Z

An Italian Company who make great value boar brushes with a strong following on the shaving forums. You will find something to suit you here:

Omega

H L Thater

2010-02-05T06:22:00.000Z

Heinrich L Thater have been making hand made brushes in Germany since 1913. Their brushes are among the most popular on German shaving forums. They have a web site but no useful information in English. I have been able to find only two internet sources to obtain brushes. Straight Razor Designs and Different Scent. I have one of their brushes in my collection.

H L Thater

ACCA KAPPA

2010-02-05T05:26:00.000Z

AKKA KAPPA

I bought one of these brushes in a half price sale for £60. I certainly wouldn't have paid the full price! Check their website and you will know as much as I do about them. A beautifully presented brush though which i will describe more fully later.

shavemac

2010-02-05T05:16:00.001Z

shavemac

Yes, it should be a small s !

This is a German Company. They make fine brushes and offer excellent customer service. Their website (link above) really does have all you really need to know.

Plisson

2010-02-05T05:09:00.000Z

"There are shaving brushes, then there are Plisson" say the professionals. This is about the only tub thumping you will find on the Plisson website. Still made in Plerin, Brittany in France, Plisson shaving brushes, if not the best, are certainly the most expensive in the world.

Another manufacturer/retailer you can see the wide range of brushes here:

Plisson

Vie - Long

2010-02-05T05:06:00.001Z

Vie-Long, S.L. is a family business established in Spain in 1940. Since then, it has specialised in manufacturing shaving and make-up brushes for such sectors as perfumery, hairdressing or aesthetics.
Nowadays, Vie-Long combines modern technology with careful and traditional handcrafted manufacturing patterns which strength its brand and product prestige in both local and international markets.
This is their web site:

Vie - Long

Edwin Jagger

2010-02-04T11:35:00.001Z

Edwin Jagger

Edwin Jagger make their brushes in their Sheffield Factory. You can see them being made on their U Tube Video They import their knots ready made and insert them into a wide range of handles. Edwin Jagger brushes are widely available in shops and on the internet. Another manufacturer/retailer, Jagger sell their shaving products directly through The English Shaving Company website.

Kent Brushes

2010-02-04T11:31:00.000Z

Kent Brushes

Another claimant to be the world's finest brush makers, Kent shaving brushes bear the Royal Warrant. I have a soft spot for Kent. The BK8 was my first badger brush and I got a free BK4 for adding 10 friends to their facebook site. Based in Hemel Hempstead they have a factory and shop there. My request to see the shaving brushes made was met with a polite refusal. I am left wondering who really makes their brushes. They have a wide range from high quality silvertip to the very cheap brush typical of some of the low cost imports from China. Kent combine the roles of manufacturer and retailer. Unlike Rooney,

Simpson, Jagger and Vulfix, Kent brushes don't bear the Made in England label. Perhaps we are expected to take that as read.

R A Rooney

2010-02-04T06:41:00.002Z

Rooney is world famous and offer a wide variety of fine shaving brushes, many of which are a delight to use. So I was particularly keen to find out about where and how they are made. Using information available on the internet I was able to piece this information together.
This is what is said about Rooney on the only UK website that sells their brushes;

Rooney history

On the internet forums there is speculation about the present nature of the production of Rooney brushes. The present owner of the brand keeps a low profile and has not directly commented on reports that brush heads and handles are imported from China and assembled In the UK to retain the Made in England label.

In this modern world it is surprising that there is sensitivity about where things are made. The famous icon of British Radio - Roberts Radios have been outsourced to China for many years without damage to the brand name.

Wherever and by whom they are made, they are fine brushes, if a little overpriced. More about that later.

Progress Vulfix

2010-02-04T06:30:00.001Z

Progress Vulfix

Now this is where things get interesting. Progress Vulfix are based on the Isle of Man which is not really part of the UK. Not to worry, they are universally recognised as the premier british brush maker. They make and directly sell their own brand of Vulfix Old Original. And they make and sell the Simpson range through retailers. And they make several other well known brands. I guess they would make a Fido brand too at the right price.
Vulfix are easy to contact and you are assured of a pleasant response to requests for advice and information. Here is another link of interest:

A visit to Vulfix

Simpsons

2010-02-04T06:16:00.004Z

Alexander Simpson started making shaving brushes in 1919 and established a unique reputation which is maintained today. The Simpsons brand is now made by Vulfix to the same specification and quality. One of the best sources of information about Simpson brushes can be found here: Em's Place

And here: more

The Gentleman's Shop also published these:

The Simpsons Story

The Simpsons Factory

Shaving brush makers and brands

2010-02-04T06:04:00.000Z

Sometimes you embark on a journey and change direction. When I started taking an interest in bells I decided to find out what I could about the famous makers.In the UK there are two - Whitechapel Bell Foundry and John Taylor and Co. Very old companies, proud of what they do.Enthusiasts were invited to tour the foundries and to see bells being cast.Off I went to both,learnt a lot and had a great time.
So as I decided to write this blog it seemed an obvious idea to find out something about the famous British brush makers and perhaps pay them a visit to see how they made their shaving brushes.
So who are they? Well, the names that crop up most often are Simpson, Rooney, Vulfix, Kent and Edwin Jagger. The big London names of Trumpers, TOBS and Trufitt & Hill have their own brands made for them too.
Further afield are the likes of Plisson, Omega, Shavemac, Semogue and Savile Rowe. Not quite so easy to visit these.
There's a lot of information about some of these legends on the internet so I shall just explain how far I got.

Using your shaving brush

2010-02-01T13:08:00.002Z

You can find plenty of advice about how to make lather with your brush. You will find a video here:

Mantic's U Tube videos.

But how do you apply lather to your face? There are two main motions. Painting and circular. To understand the different viewpoints I started this discussion at The Shaving Room forum:

Lathering - Circular or painting

Think also about this advice which came with leaflets from some of my shaving brush suppliers:

"Lather lightly, without pressure"
"Do not press the hair of the brush on your face as you lather, it should be used lightly.
Remember only the tip of the hair penetrates and works up a really good lather. THEREFORE USE THE BRUSH WITH A LIGHT HAND, MAKING LONG TO AND FRO STROKES ON THE FACE"
"Lather lightly without pressure, excessive pressure will break the hairs and cause shedding"

That's pretty clear eh?

It all means that if you have a soft floppy brush with a relatively tall loft - say over 52mm you will have no option but to paint on the lather. Circular motions preferred by most face latherers mean that you really must use a firm dense brush with backbone and/or with a loft below 50mm in most cases.

But in the end it's up to you. You will soon figure out your preferences.

Shaving brush care and shedding

2010-02-01T13:07:00.001Z

I asked Progress Vulfix for information about shedding which I might include in my shaving blogs.

This is an extract from advice they gave to a customer who sells their branded brushes. It contains some interesting information and advice.

"A new brush can typically expect to shed hairs for the first 3 months of its life as it sheds any loose hairs not removed in the manufacturing process. You could also mention that if the hairs the brush is shedding are short hairs then this can be a result of hairs breaking rather than shedding due to the brush being used incorrectly i.e. not letting the bristles soak in warm NOT hot water to soften them before use. Soaking the whole brush in water that is too hot can cause the epoxy resin in the handle to expand causing the handle to crack or the hairs to shed, it is always best to try to soak the bristles and not the handle. If you do have a brush that is shedding it is common practice to comb thru the bristles with a fine toothed comb, this can help to remove any loose hairs. Excessive shedding would be considered at 10 hairs per shave but it is quite normal for a brush to lose 3 or 4 hairs every shave for all of its life. If a brush suddenly starts shedding after several months then it is more likely to be caused by improper care of the brush rather than the brush just starting to shed, as soap residue can attack the hairs and make them brittle"

So key issues are the need to soak only the bristles in warm, not hot, water and to ensure that soap residue is fully removed after use.

This is a great piece of research from Shaving 101:

Shedding

Brush density

2010-01-31T11:16:00.000Z

Every picture tells a story. Here is the Simpson Duke Best and an Edwin Jagger Best.

Both have a 23mm knot. One cost £74 and the other was £36. The loft heights are 46mm and 54mm. A good example of a brush with a firm backbone and a floppy.

Density is mainly about the amount of hair in a brush but the firmness of a brush can also be increased by setting a lower loft. Dense brushes tend to be more expensive.

Fan or bulb shape head?

2010-01-31T10:56:00.001Z

Rooney Heritage Stuubby 2 Shavemac 177

Here are two typical shapes used in brush heads. Opinion is divided about the relative merits of each type.
These are discussions I initiated on the shaving forums.

SMF and TSR

Me? I'm still not sure what I prefer!

How shaving brushes are made

2010-01-31T06:33:00.001Z

If you really want to get a better idea of how a shaving brush is made here are some useful links:

A visit to Vulfix

Edwin Jagger video

Shaving brush craftsmanship

And if you are a real glutton:

Anatomy of a Simpson's brush.

Good old Mantic

2010-01-31T06:17:00.000Z

Once you take an interest in wet shaving on the internet you will come across Mantic. His blog and U tube videos have made a huge contribution to stimulating interest in our hobby.
Take a look at Mantic's:

Shaving brush basics video

It covers some of the stuff I've covered here. And if you are looking for advice about how to lather and use your brush you will find plenty on Mantic's U tube site that I won't attempt to emulate here.

Bloggers united!

Knot, loft, floppy, backbone, stiff.

2010-01-31T05:50:00.001Z

These are key words which define the characteristics of a shaving brush. Take a look again at this Jagger silvertip and Simpson Duke 3.

Both brushes have a knot width at the base of 23mm. Both are 92mm high. But the brushes are completely different. Partly because one is the very soft silvertip while the other is best badger. Simpson's best badger brushes are however surprisingly soft also. The difference lies in the height of the loft - the height of the brush head. The difference is just 4mm. If you have a 'floppy' brush, tie a piece of string round the base of the knot around 4-5mm thick to simulate a lower loft height and feel the difference. Suddenly, the silvertip will be much firmer. This may not suit you. But if you prefer a brush with some backbone which is preferable for face lathering look for a brush with a relatively low loft. Larger knot sizes can afford higher lofts. A firm brush in the 22mm knot size needs to be below 50mm. Rooney do an excellent silvertip 22mm/45mm loft which is an excellent face latherer. If you prefer the luxurious feel of a soft silvertip, mix your lather in a bowl with creams and paint it on, the loft for a medium size brush can comfortably exceed 50mm and you will be happy. If you prefer soaps and face lathering with circular motions go for a firm brush with a low loft. Always check dimensions before buying a brush. They are usually set out clearly on most web sites.

To explore further the opinions of shaving enthusiasts take a look at these threads about knot/loft preferences:

Shave My Face

The Shaving Room

Badger grades

2010-01-30T06:17:00.001Z

You will come across lots of grades when looking for a brush. There is no industry standard. Even the same so called grade varies with different makers. So you have terms that include words like finest, silvertip, super, best, pure and combinations of these words. They are all to do with the part of the badger they came from as well as treatments applied to the hairs.
There is a mass of information about shaving brushes on the shaving forums. Here is one which describes the grades of several of the famous makers and brands.

Bands

This is a term used to describe the number of bands of colours visible above the brush handle. Usually it's three: light, dark, light. But in recent times, particularly for short loft brushes, you come across two band brushes. These are usually very dark from the base with almost white tips. These are mostly made from long best badger hair which is quite stiff yet very soft at the tips. It makes a fine all round brush suitable for use with both creams and hard soaps.

Some boar brushes have hairs that are all one colour - a one band?!

Badger Grades explained - Badger and Blade Wiki

Badger v Boar v Synthetic?

2010-01-30T06:09:00.005Z

Badger brushes are softer and more expensive than boar brushes which are generally firmer and great value. I have no experience with synthetic brushes. I will describe my experience with boar when I describe the few I have. You have seen some of my badger brushes. Here is the very popular Semogue 1305:

Here are some links to some discussion about the relative merits of badger and boar brushes:

And more about boar:

How much should you spend on a shaving brush?

2010-01-30T06:02:00.001Z

Whatever you wish!

My first brush on returning to DE shaving a couple of years ago cost £5. I was perfectly happy with it until I discovered the world of shaving forums. There are hundreds if not thousands of brushes in all price ranges. They will all serve the purpose of mixing and applying lather. In the collection of brushes I will describe later you will find brushes from less than £10 to around £200. A brush can be functional or an indulgence. Pay your money and make your choice.

Vulfix 404 Boar badger mix - £8

Simpson Chubby 2 Best - £100 +

Plisson High Mountain White - £189

Rooney 1/2 Finest £190

Choosing a shaving brush

2010-01-30T05:50:00.002Z

Like people, shaving brushes come in varying shapes, sizes and characteristics. And we shavers have preferences for creams, soaps, or love both and have different preferences for making and applying lather. So brush makers try to meet these different needs. Some brushes are soft and floppy. People with sensitive skin may prefer them. They also work well with creams. If you like soaps, you may prefer a denser, stiffer brush to generate lather. Some people like to make lather in a bowl - any brush will do that. Others prefer an exfoliating scrub while building lather directly on their face. A firm brush is better for that. And then size. You can get very small or very large brushes. Most of us stick within a knot size range of 22mm to 24mm. (This is the size of the base of the knot)
All brushes can be used with soaps and creams but some are better at each job. So it's generally soft for creams and stiff for soaps. Something in between is a good all rounder.
Once you start using brushes, you will inevitably end up trying more than one. Only you will decide what's best for you. Once you decide the characteristics you want in a brush, any number or reviews will help you to identify a brush which may suit you. It may cost a bit to find out!

The photo shows a rather floppy Edwin Jagger Silvertip and the Simpson Duke 3 Best badger - a firm dense all rounder.

These threads are worth a look if you really want to get into detail:

A guide to choosing a brush

Picking and buying advice

Introducing my blog

2010-01-29T07:12:00.001Z

This is a shaving brush bearing the name of the best shaving brush brand in the world.

It is a limited edition of 90 made to celebrate the 90th anniversary of Vulfix who now make Simpson brushes.It cost me £180. Now you know I have a serious interest in shaving brushes. I'll write more about this brush later. But let me first explain why I am publishing this blog.
I love wet shaving. But my favourite part of the ritual is using my brushes. I love the look, the feel, mixing up the lather, then the delightful sensation of running the brush round my face.As an avid collector of many things throughout my life, once I discovered my delight in shaving brushes it was inevitable that I would become a collector. Someone on one of the shaving forums has over 160 brushes. I might one day, but at present I have approaching 50 examples of brushes made by most of the well known makers.
Obtaining them has involved a lot of research. So this blog is the story behind my shaving brush collection. It's about the makers and how they are made. The different characteristics of brushes and indeed anything I found of interest which I think will be worth sharing.
There is an incredible amount of information on the internet about shaving brushes.It's all been done by someone. Where it might be of value, I'll provide links to other sites which have interesting facts, figures and opinions.And of course I will post photos of each of my brushes with full details together with my personal assessment of the performance of the brush.
It's going to take a while, but I hope it will be fun.

And this is my collection at present. I'll work out how to display them properly soon. They have a lot of bells to compete with in my room right now.